Questions and answers

Will greenhouse treatment help with phytophthora

Will greenhouse treatment help with phytophthora

We are searching data for your request:

Forums and discussions:
Manuals and reference books:
Data from registers:
Wait the end of the search in all databases.
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.

Please answer, if you process the greenhouse with phytosporin (both the ground, and the frame, and polycorban), will it help from late blight, gray rot? I have no strength to change the earth.


We burn 2 sulfur drafts. Greenhouse 3x6.

No, phytosporin is weak for this! Bordeaux, blue vitriol will do

Phytosparin will not work, kuparos is the very same and pour straight soda ash on the ground and spill with water, I think it will be the very thing, at least I will. But even in winter, I throw snow into the greenhouse so that the disinfection gives soda

Well, of course, checkers, for sure

I have one copper sulfate that does an excellent job, and checkers are scary - sulfur is after all (more dangerous than vitriol)

Yes. The hope of the right phytosporin is good for prevention or for the first symptoms. And so Bordeska is the most and at what probably both in the fall and in the spring.

Lyudmila, I always cultivate the earth with copper sulfate, 1s.l. 10l.water, 5l. On 1 sq.m. But polycarbonate can in no case be treated with chemistry. It’s better to just wash with a detergent. Otherwise, spoil the polycarbonate, and why did you decide that replacing the earth, you left phytophthora and rot, this is enough in any land. It is better to process the bushes in a timely manner, but there are many methods. My land is permanent, part of the land is carried away with seedlings that I grow around the perimeter, part when removing tomatoes in autumn, but instead of this land I add humus, and everything remains at its level.

Phytosporin is a bacterial drug, therefore, it works only at plus temperature (not lower than +15) and regular use (every 10-15 days). Autumn copper sulfate is better. And the selection of resistant tomato hybrids also gives a good result (I never get sick with gray rot Bohemia company Gavrish)

Instead of a checker, you can set fire to egg packing, paper and add tobacco dust. This is said to be better than a checker, and this procedure can be done during the growth of plants in it. It does no harm to them, and even better than from a checker.

Please tell me, does a checker not harm polycarbonate? My first experience.

it harms the metal, if your frame is rusted at least somewhere, then it’s better not to have a checker ...

I shed copper sulfate, and also process the entire frame and film in the fall and spring - it does not help. This year, I gained strength and still brought the earth out of both greenhouses and after that I still shed. I’ll see what happens. For 10 liters I breed 2 tablespoons. Maybe the solution is not strong enough?

Buy a sulfur checker, there is a fumigation of the entire greenhouse, which destroys fungal and other diseases

I didn’t ask a question, but I had it ... Thank you for such an understandable explanation !!!

for prophylactic purposes, use a 1-3% solution of vitriol: - for example, -1%: 100g of powder per 10l.water. The flow rate of the solution is up to 4 liters per square meter; - As a fertilizer: make 1g. powder per 1 m2 on sandy and peaty soils annually, or in spring or autumn

In the instructions for polycarbonate it is written that it is not desirable (about a sulfur block). If you have instructions for the greenhouse, then there you will find the answer to the question.

Thank you. It turns out, indeed, Lil was a weak solution. Did you do this yourself? Only watered in the fall or spring too? Do I need to water immediately before landing?

if you don’t disappear after the autumn treatment, then shed it in the spring. I don’t have time in the fall, so I work on the greenhouse in the spring: only my polycarbonate, with detergent; I spill the soil with a hot solution of copper sulfate. On a watering can dissolve 3 packets, 150 grams. Consumption: watering can - by 2 m2 approximately, when more, when less - if there were outbreaks of disease, then pour more. I do not process it every year. If the earth is not sick, then I can do this by simply scattering the vitriol with powder when loosening - like fertilizer, in order to replenish the reserves of copper in the ridges. Planting operations after treatment begin on the third day, why I do not know on the third; I’ve gotten used to it. As I already printed above, I spill it only with a hot solution - I read it once, a long time ago, either in PX or in Nadezhda (once such a printed Vologda publication was written out) that MK solution is used only in hot form (so that worked). I tried, believed and got used to it. Well, I answered all the questions, sort of. If something else interests you - ask: if I know and applied, and there was an effect, then I’ll tell you.